Leaves are falling.

Should I be pruning?

The answer is: maybe.

There are two reasons for pruning any time of year.

First, you should remove dead or damaged limbs that may be in danger of falling and injuring someone or some property.

Second, you can prune anytime to remove diseased sections of a plant to preserve or improve the health of the remaining plant.

Other than that, you must know the type of plant and what time of year is best for pruning.

In general, the best time of year to prune is the late dormant season during late winter or early spring prior for plants starting to break out in their bud phase.

But there are always exceptions to the rule.

Spring flowering trees and shrubs should be pruned after they flower to prevent loss of flower buds.

There are also a few trees and shrubs that do best when pruned in summer or fall.

Some species that prefer fall pruning include beech, elm, honey locust, linden, poplar and sour-wood.

Evergreens that can be pruned in November include arborvitae, Atlas cedar, juniper-red cedar, fir and holly.

Always use sharp pruning tools when pruning.

A sharp tool will make a clean cut, which will allow the plant to form wound wood that helps prevent infestation by insects or the introduction of disease.

A tool that is dull will crush and tear plant material, rather than providing a good clean cut.

The damaged plant tissue is an open invitation for pests and diseases.

Another way to introduce diseases in a plant is to prune an infected plant and then prune a healthy one.

The pruning tool you use needs to be disinfected after you prune off any diseased material.

You can do this by spraying the tool with a disinfectant or rubbing alcohol.

After disinfecting the tool, it is always a good idea to put a light film of oil on the metal to prevent rusting.

Depending on the design, hand shears can be used to cut stems and branches up to one-half to three-quarters of one inch in diameter.

Lopping shears can be used up to about a one-and-one-half-inch diameter and anything larger should be pruned with a special pruning saw.

If you need anything larger than a pruning saw, such as a chain saw, then it may be time to hire a professional certified arborist.

Pruning cuts should be made at the base of the branch or stem you are pruning but be sure not to cut into the branch collar since that will hinder the plant’s defense mechanism.

If you are pruning a larger branch with a pruning saw, it is best to use the three-cut method to avoid having the limb drop and peel bark away from the tree.

The first cut should be made underneath the limb approximately three inches away from the branch collar.

The second cut is made from the top, approximately four or five inches away from the branch collar.

When the second cut is complete, you are left with a short stub.

The third cut is used to remove the stub at an angle just above the branch collar.

The angle of the cut will be determined by the branch collar.

This method of pruning ensures better formation of wound wood to help minimize the entry of pests and diseases.

“Growing Green” is contributed by Lehigh County Extension Office Staff and Master Gardeners. Information: Lehigh County Extension Office, 610-391-9840; Northampton County Extension Office, 610-813-6613